At first glance, we had seen the dozens of indistinct and oversized, concrete bunkers masquerading as luxury hotels. These are dotted all along the airport road, a highway which runs a 5 km stretch into the contrasted atmosphere of the sprawling sidewalks, cafes and treelined roads of the colonial, old town centre.
Tom had already been propositioned along airport road for Boom Boom when I had momentarily pulled my bicycle over to repair my bungie cord which had caught up in my chain. Which leads me to my next impression, that Siem Reap has big collection of brothels and massage parlours, professional girlfriends and hostesses. Culturally, this a plays a part in the national psyche. Particularly for the women of Cambodia who seek good pay and security in the abundance of work and the network of support it provides from their womenfolk co-workers. Although, for the faily conservative remainder of the XX population there is a stigma around sex and sexual health. THis stigma stems from the prevalence of AIDS and the misconception that only sex-workers and drug users are susceptable, an aversion to the use of condoms is unfortunately common because as they are seen as sign of being a professional girl. Many women are opting for the pill and see the condom as an unreliable form protection due to the company that uses it. Medical NGO's are slowly connecting with individual communities to set up discussions based on these sexual health themes with all the women in the village. All the village women, 13 year olds to 60 something year olds, attend these talking circles to hear information, share stories and ask questions around sex, health and intimacy, a surprisingly frank and joyful affair.
But to get back on track...Tom and I were on a search for the cultural beat of Siem Reap. One unsuspecting afternoon a lead came our way! I was asked by a friend of mine at the guesthouse if I had a spare dress she could borrow. I retrieved my one and only little number and she explained that she had been asked to be a back up model for a fashion show that night and kindly, we were invited to tag along.
(above: the scene is set for the show. Beautiful woman in draped silks and crafted material lounge over the white boudoir furniture.)
In preparation I rode into town to a vintage dress shop that I had discovered earlier that day and as luck had it I found a perfect dress for only 7USD. Tom pulled on his best trousers, black and embroidered with grey dragons. Made-up, our hair oiled and set and we were ready for a local arts event!
(above: Fashion Designer Eric Raisina's tribute to beautiful colourful Cambodian silks mixed with his own passion for delicate twisting, knotting and haute couture)
When we arrived to the Art Deco building, Hotel de la Paix, a mix of ex-pats and arts supporters, thick rimmed photographers and socialites, and both Thai and Cambodian media before us. The scene was bustling, women and men in delicate dresses and tailored suits, some even daringly wearing creative and eccentric pieces. I held my eyes up and posture tall, my theory was to divert attention from my flip flops to my smashing makeup and neat, curve embracing cocktail dress. It seemed to work!
So, Siem Reap can hold their own in the world arts scene. The event was elegant mass of sashaying citizens. The wine flowed, bespoke chocolates with the designer's name dusted upon them were handed out along side artfully balanced canapes.
Soon we were ushered inside for the performance. The models held statue still on the centre stage. One by one exibiting their garb in a circuit under expectant gazes.
(Above: Traditional Angkor dancer performs in a modern silk costume designed by the designer. The usually gilded pantaloons exchanged for shocking orange silk tassels and wild hair. The dancer looked more like a spectacular african shaman than demure Khmer dancer!)
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